How we got to 480gsm

People ask why our fleece is so heavy. The honest answer is that the first version was not, and it was terrible.

Sample one was a lie

The first hoodie we sampled was 320gsm, which is what most “heavyweight” hoodies actually are. It looked right on the hanger. Then we washed it five times and the side seams had travelled about three centimetres toward the front. That twist has a name — torque — and it happens when a knitted fabric relaxes unevenly. Lighter, looser knits do it more.

We could have fixed it the cheap way, with resin finishes that hold the fabric still for the first few washes. Instead we kept going up in weight.

What changes as you go heavier

Every 40gsm or so, something different happens:

• 360gsm — the twist mostly stops, but the hood still collapses.
• 400gsm — the hood stands up on its own. This is where our crewneck sits.
• 440gsm — cuffs stop stretching out by the afternoon.
• 480gsm — the body hangs straight from the shoulder instead of clinging. This is the one.

We also tried 520. It was like wearing a doormat.

A hoodie should feel like something is looking after you. At 480 it finally did.

The expensive mistake

Sample nine was perfect, so we ordered 600 metres. What we had not done was wash the fabric before cutting. The finished hoodies shrank a full size in length. We re-cut every single one as a cropped fit — which, as it turned out, people preferred. Our whole block has been slightly cropped ever since.

Everything is now washed twice before it is cut: once as fabric, once as a finished garment.

Why it matters

A heavier knit uses more cotton, takes longer to dye and costs more to ship. It also means the hoodie you buy this winter should look about the same in five. We think that is a better deal than three cheaper ones.

If a seam ever does go, it is covered for two years. Bring it to The Depot or post it back and we will fix it.